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April 17, 2016 2:58 pm  #1


TBF-QM-7 Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara

7. Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara

   This tiara was made in 1919 by E. Wolff & Co. for Garrard using “633 brilliants & 271 rose diamonds” supplied by Queen Mary[1] taken from various pieces including ‘Queen Mary’s Queen Victoria Wedding Gift Necklace/Tiara’, and a “bracelet  monogram”.[2]

   It is in the “fashionable Russian style”;[3] the original design of which features in Munn, and is dated September 1919.[4] Roberts describes it as being “formed from 47 graduated brilliant- and rose-set tapering bars, divided by 46 narrow spikes, set lozenge-fashion with nine graduated brilliants at the centre, diminishing to five at either side; de-mountable for use as necklace”.[5]

   This tiara has often been confused with ‘Queen Adelaide’s Fringe Necklace’, having incorrectly been purported to contain diamonds from the collection of George III.[6] Roberts has suggested that Queen Mary commissioned this “new, smaller, neater and more modern-looking tiara”,[7] as she found ‘Queen Adelaide’s Fringe Necklace’ to be an overly “generous size” when worn as a tiara, with a “somewhat irregular graduation of the bars”.[8]

   The tiara featured in Queen Mary’s photographic jewellery inventory[9] and has been photographed as worn by Queen Mary.[10] In 1936 it was given to Queen Elizabeth,[11] who has also been photographed wearing it often.[12] In 1947, this tiara was lent to the Queen to wear on her wedding day “as ‘something borrowed’”,[13] and can be seen wearing it in the official wedding photographs.[14] It was also lent by Queen Elizabeth to Princess Anne, on her wedding day in 1973.[15] The Queen inherited it in 2002 and has since worn it on occasion.[16]

1. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 188; GA Garrard RL3, fol. 106, 3 November 1919
2. Ibid.
3. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 188
4. Munn, Tiaras, pl. 144
5. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 188
6. Menkes, The Royal Jewels, pp. 117 – 118; Field, The Queen’s Jewels, pp. 41 – 43; Munn, Tiaras, pl. 145
7. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 188
8. Ibid., p. 32
9. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 188; RA QM/PRIV/CC94, pl. 50, no. 1
10. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 191 (RCIN 2808282)
11. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 188; RA JEWEL/GARRARD/QM, fol. 131, no. 3;
RA QM/PRIV/CC94, pl. 50 
12. Menkes, The Royal Jewels, p. 118; Field, The Queen’s Jewels, p. 43; Munn, Tiaras, pl. 142; Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, pp. 191 and 227 (RCIN 2506219)
13. Jane Roberts, Five Gold Rings: A Royal Wedding Souvenir Album, (London: Royal Collection Publications, 2007), p. 105
14. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 190 (RCIN 2805935)
15. Field, The Queen’s Jewels, p. 43
16. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 188
 

 

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