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April 12, 2016 9:37 am  #1


TBF-QM-50 Queen Mary’s Chain Link Bracelets/Collar

50. Queen Mary's Chain Link Bracelets/Collar

   These two bracelets were made separately, yet they were engineered to combine to form a collar necklace.[1] Queen Mary purchased the first of these bracelets from Garrard's stock in 1932 for “£650”.[2]

   On the 22 June 1933 the Diamond Industry of South Africa presented Queen Mary with a rough diamond to mark the occasion of her opening South Africa House.[3] This stone was subsequently cut into a 9¾-carat brilliant-cut diamond, and in 1934, it was set into the centre of a brooch by Garrard, at the cost of “£290”.[4]

   In 1935, Queen Mary commissioned Garrard to create a second bracelet, matching the first, which included the brooch as a detachable centrepiece, which was carried out at the cost of “£300”.[5] These two bracelets could thus be linked together to form a collar necklace.

   Roberts describes these as “two flexible bracelets, the rectangular pavé-set chain links with channel-set baguettes, one bracelet with three buckle-shaped panels, each mounted with a brilliant in rub-over settings, the other of very similar design, set with two brilliant collets and a central brooch element (originally detachable) mounted with a large brilliant; with snap fittings to join together as a collar”.[6]

   Queen Mary can be seen wearing these two bracelets to the coronation of King George VI in 1937;[7] she also wore them as a collar in an official photographic sitting.[8] During the Service of Thanksgiving to mark King George V’s Silver Jubilee in 1935, she can be seen wearing this collar with the detachable brooch centrepiece being replaced with ‘Queen Mary’s Baroque Pearl Brooch’.

   These two bracelets were bequeathed to The Queen in 1953.[9] However, as Roberts argues, she has “only worn them as bracelets”,[10] on various occasions.[11]

1. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 210
2. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 210; GA Garrard RL3, fol. 125, 23 May 1932;
    RA JEWEL/GARRAD/QM, fol. 54; RA QM/PRIV/CC94, pl. 71, no. 3
3. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 210
4. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 210; GA Garrard RL3, fol. 130, 4 December 1934;
RA QM/PRIV/CC94, pl. 75, no. 1
5. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 210; GA Garrard RL3, fol. 134, 1 December 1936
6. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 210
7. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 167 (RCIN 2000432)
8. Field, The Queen’s Jewels, p. 81
9. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 210; RA JEWEL/GARRAD/QM, fol. 55;
RA QM/PRIV/CC94, pl. 76, no. 1
10. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 210
11. Field, The Queen’s Jewels, pp. 45 and 81; Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, pp. 184 and 210
 

 

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