22. The Delhi Durbar Necklace, and Cullinan VII Pendant

   Although both Field and the Royal Collection Dress for the Occasion microsite argue that this necklace was presented to Queen Mary in 1911 by the Maharanee of Patiala on behalf of the ladies of India,[1] Roberts argues that this necklace was in fact made by Garrard in 1911, incorporating “nine of the celebrated Cambridge emeralds”.[2]

   Garrard provided all the diamonds (other than the large marquise-cut Cullinan VII pendant), and mounted the Cambridge emeralds into this necklace; the cost of which was originally meant to be shared between King George V and Queen Mary.[3] However,  Queen Mary’s jewellery inventory reveals that it was actually paid in full by the King, as a 44th birthday present to Queen Mary."[3]

   Roberts describes the necklace as being “set with eight cabochon emeralds, three cushion shaped, four oval and one lozenge-shaped in cut-down gold and pavé-set diamond collets, between six large brilliants in platinum claw settings, on a double platinum chain set with 94 small brilliants, the central emerald suspending a pavé-set pear-shaped emerald on a detachable chain of 12 graduated small brilliants, and a marquise brilliant (Cullinan VII) on a detachable chain of ten graduated small brilliants”.[4]

   The Cullinan VII pendant weighs in at 8.8 carats, and is the smaller marquise stone to be cut from the Cullinan Diamond.[5] Prior to Queen Mary inheriting the Cullinan VI marquise stone from Queen Alexandra in 1925, she often detached this pendant from this necklace, attaching it to the Cullinan VIII brooch.[6] Although the Dress for the Occasion microsite argues that the necklace was not adapted until 1912 to hold the Cullinan VII,[7] this has proved unfounded as Queen Mary can be seen clearly wearing both the emerald and the diamond pendant to the Delhi Durbar in 1911,[8] and subsequent photographic sittings in the same year.[9] Furthermore, in 1912, Queen Mary wore the Cullinan III stone as a pendant on this necklace to the State Opening of Parliament.[10] And on occasion she wore it with both pendants detached.[11]

   The Queen was bequeathed this necklace upon the death of Queen Mary in 1953,[12] and she now wears it often, usually with ‘The Vladimir Tiara’ when this is hung with the Cambridge emeralds.[13]

1. Field, The Queen’s Jewels, p. 90; Royal Collection: Dress for the Occasion: The Delhi Durbar Necklace http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/microsites/dressfortheoccasion/object.asp?exhibs=BPSO2006jewellery&item=4  [Accessed 7 June 2012]
2. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 174
3. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 174; GA Garrard RL2, fol. 45, King George V, 16 June 1911; RA GV Private Bills PP3/3/208; GA Garrard RL2, fol. 70, Queen Mary, 16 June 1911"/>Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 174; RA JEWEL/GARRARD/QM, fol. 118; RA QM/PRIV/CC93, pl. 31, no. 3
4. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 174
5. Ibid., p. 174
6. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, pp. 168, 170 and 174
7. Royal Collection: Dress for the Occasion: The Delhi Durbar Necklace  http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/microsites/dressfortheoccasion/object.asp?exhibs=BPSO2006jewelleryitem=4  [Accessed 7 June 2012]
8. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 170 (RCIN 2917139)
9. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 176
10. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 174
11. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 199 (RCIN 2808233); Field, The Queen’s Jewels, p. 91
12. Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 174
13. Field, The Queen’s Jewels, p. 91; Roberts, The Queen’s Diamonds, p. 177 (RCIN 2508454)