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April 18, 2016 10:14 am  #1


TBF-QEII-38 The Queen’s Brazilian Aquamarine Parure

38. The Queen’s Brazilian Aquamarine Parure

   This parure of aquamarines and diamonds was acquired by The Queen in stages, all as official gifts from the President and People of Brazil.

   The first of these gifts was presented to The Queen in 1953 to mark her coronation. It was a necklace and matching pair of pendant earrings made by the jewellers Mappin and Webb of Rio de Janeiro.[1] Field described this gift necklace as consisting of “nine large oblong aquamarines each in a diamond scroll setting with an even bigger oblong aquamarine pendant drop. The simple diamond setting of the pendant was echoed in the pendant aquamarine earrings”.[2] This was the original form of the necklace, and it can be seen illustrated as such in both Young and Menkes.[3]

   To accompany this necklace, in 1957, The Queen commissioned Garrard to create a simple bandeau tiara, which consisted of “the three upright rectangular stones (detachable for use as brooches), mounted on a simple platinum band”.[4] The Queen was pictured wearing this tiara on occasion.[5]

   This parure was augmented further in 1958, when the President and People of Brazil added to their gift, by presenting The Queen with a bracelet “of seven large oblong aquamarines set in clusters of diamonds” and a brooch in the form of “a single large square aquamarine in a simple diamond setting”.[6]

   One final gift of aquamarines and diamonds was presented to The Queen, on her State Visit to Brazil in 1968, when the Governor of Sao Paolo presented “a V-shaped ‘hair ornament’”,[7] which The Queen was pictured wearing on occasion.[8]

   In 1971, the decision was taken to dismantle this hair ornament, with the stones being used to make “four scroll-shaped motifs” to be added to the tiara.[9] At the same time, the large central pendant from the necklace was mounted in the centre of the tiara, and the original central element of the tiara was converted into a detachable pendant for the necklace.[10]

   It is in this current form, that The Queen has worn this parure on a number of occasions, most notably to the State Banquet hosted in honour of the President of Brazil, at Buckingham Palace in 2006; and the Commonwealth Heads of Government Banquet in Australia in 2011.

1. Royal Collection: Dress for the Occasion: Aquamarine and diamond necklace http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/microsites/dressfortheoccasion/object.asp?exhibs=BPSO2006jewellery&item=8 [Accessed 15 June 2012]
2. Field, The Queen’s Jewels, p. 21
3. Young, The Queen’s Jewellery, pl. 60; Menkes, The Royal Jewels, p. 135
4. Royal Collection: Dress for the Occasion: Aquamarine and diamond tiara http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/microsites/dressfortheoccasion/object.asp?exhibs=BPSO2006jewellery&item=2 [Accessed 15 June 2012]
5. Young, The Queen’s Jewellery, pl. 61
6. Field, The Queen’s Jewels, p. 32
7. Ibid., p. 32
8. Royal Magazin: The Queen’s Aquamarine Tiara http://www.royal-magazin.de/england/queen/aquamarines-bracelet-tiara.htm
[Accessed 15 June 2012]
9. Field, The Queen’s Jewels, p. 21
10. Royal Collection: Dress for the Occasion: Aquamarine and diamond necklace http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/microsites/dressfortheoccasion/object.asp?exhibs=BPSO2006jewellery&item=8 [Accessed 15 June 2012]; Royal Collection: Dress for the Occasion: Aquamarine and diamond tiara http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/microsites/dressfortheoccasion/object.asp?exhibs=BPSO2006jewellery&item=2 [Accessed 15 June 2012]
 

 

June 9, 2016 5:43 am  #2


Re: TBF-QEII-38 The Queen’s Brazilian Aquamarine Parure

38. The Queen's Brazilian Aquamarine Parure
 
   There were 647 diamonds and 11 aquamarines used in the 1953 aquamarine and diamond necklace and earrings. Their settings were platinum.[1] The value of the gift was reportedly $50,000 (USD)[2] and, according to some contemporary news reports, the funds for purchasing it came from individuals rather than the Brazilian government[3]. However, the Royal Collection refers to this gift as being from the Government and people of Brazil[4]. One of the first occasions to which the Queen wore the necklace and earrings was to the performance of Rimsky-Korsakov's Le Coq d'Or at the Royal Opera House during 1954 State Visit of The King and Queen of Sweden.[5] She also wore the necklace and earrings to the Royal Variety Performance in the same year.[6]
 
   The simple bandeau tiara commissioned by the Queen was worn with the Brazilian Coronation gift to the Royal Film Performance, Odeon Theatre in Leicester Square, London in 1957.[7] (With much thanks to Beth for her additional research, notes 1 - 7)

   In 1968, the Queen received a "V-shaped aquamarine hair ornament" which was supposedly dismantled in 1971 used to make "four scroll-shaped motifs" for the Queen's tiara. In 1970, the Queen wore a tiara with five aquamarine and diamond motifs during her Canadian tour. It is unclear whether the hair ornament was the 1968 gift worn as a tiara in Canada in 1970.

   Much to the surprise of royal jewellery watchers, the Countess of Wessex appeared at the Luxembourg pre-wedding gala in October 2012 wearing the tiara that the Queen was pictured wearing in Canada in 1970. Much remains uncertain about the design evolution of this parure. Its reappearance sparked much discussion at the Royal Jewels of the World Message Board.

  Nellie has suggested the following time line for the Queen's parure. F = Fields; RC = Royal Collection

Timeline
1953 - gift of necklace and earrings (F, RC)
1957 - tiara made by Queen (F, RC)
1958 - gift of bracelet and brooch (F, RC)
1968 - gift of hair ornament (F) or jewel (RC)
1970 - Queen wore an aquamarine tiara in Canada with 5 elements
1971 - hair ornament used to make four scroll-shaped motifs for the tiara (F) - or the tiara was adapted to take four scroll ornaments from an aquamarine and diamond jewel (RC) 8 - gift of hair ornament (F) or jewel (RC)
2012 - Sophie wears the Queen's tiara worn in Canada in Luxembourg
 
 
1. "Aquamarine Necklace for Queen", North Western Courier (Narrabri, NSW), 23 Jul 1953, p. 3 [Accessed 21 Jul 2016]; "Gift from Brazil One of Best at Queen's Coronation", Lethbridge Herald, 9 Jul 1953, p. 13 [Accessed 24 Jul 2016]; "Interest Centers on Queen's Jewels", The Troy Herald, 10 Jul 1956, p. 18 [Accessed 24 Jul 2016]
2. "Interest Centers on Queen's Jewels", The Troy Herald, 10 Jul 1956, p. 18
3. Beth. "What I Have Found so Far." Message to the author. 23 July 2016. E-mail.
4. Beth. "Some photos." Message to the author. 23 July 2016. E-mail.
5. Wilson, Betty. "London Creations Flown to Australia for Spring Shows", The Mercury (Hobart, Tasmania), 15 Jul 1954, p. 8
6.  "A Royal Conversation Piece with Her Majesty's Entertainers", The Illustrated London News, 13 November 1954
7. Queen Elizabeth at Royal Film Performance, https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=https://yooniqimages.com/images/detail/102199770/Creative/queen-elizabeth-ii-looking-sumptuous-in-a-beaded-evening-gown-and-fur-wrap-the-event-was-the-royal-film-performance-at-the-odeon-theatre-in-leicester-square-london&source=gmail&ust=1470575194947000&usg=AFQjCNHwQAJ0QVdw2vqDWFW7r_ckUj-5XQ


 

 

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